In front of the gate of Jeong-dong Bukchon, a pair of haetae sit quietly. On the first day of tending this space, they weren't brought from elsewhere or newly erected. They simply had always been there, at the entrance of an alley where old wooden walls, a yellow door, and striped awnings converge—silently.
Haetae (獬豸) are mythical creatures known to discern right from wrong. In the Joseon era, they were placed in front of Gyeongbokgung Palace, believed to ward off fires and disasters. Distant relatives of the stone beasts that catch the eye near Gwanghwamun are seated at this small alley's entrance. Different in scale, yet similar in duty: to guard.
The haetae positioned on either side of the yellow door—these two always extend the first greeting of the alley.
What's amusing is that these haetae don't seem particularly majestic. Their expressions are somewhat blank. Their eyes are a bit large, and their mouths slightly open—less intimidating, more akin to saying, 'Oh, you're here?' Whether they're welcoming guests, seeing them off, or merely basking in the sun is unclear. This ambiguity suits the alley well.
The alleys of Bukchon are places like that. Spots where things without a specific purpose naturally find their place. Just as an attic is left untouched, so too are the haetae left as they are. In some spaces, presence speaks more than explanation.
As the sunlight shifts, so does the shadow of the haetae—this is how time passes in this house.
In the morning when stepping out and in the evening upon return, the expressions of the haetae appear different. It might be the angle of the light, or perhaps the day has changed for the observer. In the morning, one might pass by, but in the evening, they might find themselves taking a second look. It's as if they're asking how your day was or saying nothing at all.
In truth, the haetae might be guarding more than just this gate. The wind descending from Gyeongbokgung, the scent of evening seeping over Inwangsan, the footsteps of people passing through the alley—all of these fall within the sight of this small stone creature. Just as tiles and mountains are visible through the large windows, time flows beyond the haetae at the gate.
Next time you pass by this alley, it might be worth pausing to look at the haetae. There's no need to expect anything or seek meaning. Just their presence—since long ago, and today, too.
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